Archive for category Dressmaking Projects
Another attempt to reduce my fabric stash before I am found buried beneath multiple past purchases and a mountain of ‘to do’ lists.
Almost everyone – in the amateur dressmaking world at least – has probably made a Sorbetto top at some time or another. It’s a free pattern from Colette which is a simple sleeveless top, embellished with a pleat down the centre to give it a bit of ‘je ne sais quoi’.
I have made many and these are just a few that I can find photos for.
This one was made for Mlle. Tialys the Younger, pandering to her liking for things oriental.
This one which might have been some sort of homage to Vivienne Westwood though I doubt it. I just liked the tartan. Actually, I don’t know where this one is. I must have a rummage through my ironing basket where I put ‘stuff for Summer’ at the end of each Summer when I know it won’t be needed again for a while but, because of my tempestuous relationship with the ironing basket, most of the ‘stuff’ never again sees the light of day. ***
The lovely Liberty fabric one where I profited from a short sleeve hack that somebody had been kind enough to work out and put for free online.
Then there was the more recent Broderie Anglaise one with Peter Rabbit trim which I made for Mlle. T. the Elder as half of a pair of shortie P.J.s last Christmas.
So, when I wanted to make a pull on over your head, easy to wear Summer dress with short sleeves (I’d made several such dresses last Summer but sleeveless) I thought I’d try making the Sorbetto top into a dress and I had some of my quilting fabric in mind. I don’t know why I bought so much of this, I usually buy small amounts for patchwork projects, so it must have been on sale or something or maybe I bought it with a dressmaking project in mind. Who knows or dares to dream? Not me. But, no matter, I had it and it needed something doing with it.
I made the bias binding for all of these tops and, although I toyed with the idea of making it in a contrast fabric for this dress, I stuck to using the same one for around the neck and the sleeves. That’s the stuff going through my little bias binding making gadget.
I also toyed with the idea of leaving out the pleat down the centre of the front. I like to toy with ideas, can you tell? Anyway, I reasoned that, without it, it would look just like any old plain, short sleeved dress so I left it in. Now it looks like any old plain, short sleeved dress with a pleat down the front but that’s the look I was going for.
I am all alone at the moment so have no photographer available and, if I can be frank with you, couldn’t be bothered to dig out my remote for the camera, so you’ll have to believe me when I say it looks better on me than on her.
Nothing complicated went on here, I just graded out the pattern slightly from below the waistline to the length I wanted and it worked out quite well. I always scoop the neck out lower too with this pattern as one woman’s scoop is another woman’s high neck.
*** For those of you who care – I just remembered what happened to the tartan top (well it was 2014) and you can read about it here . No wonder I’d wiped it from my memory although I wasn’t far off with my Vivienne Westwood connection. Read it and weep.
Another post in which I share my efforts to use up some of my ‘fabric stash beyond life expectancy’.
A couple of years I bought two lengths of scuba fabric to make tunic tops for my daughter. One was a floral which I used but, for a reason I can’t remember, the top wasn’t successful so it’s in the scrap bin for possible use in a future project.
The other was this one featuring various tattoo designs.
I don’t think even one of you liked it and I didn’t either – it was the daughter’s choice – so it has languished in the fabric stash ever since, only narrowly avoiding being given to the charity shop/thrift store/op shop (insert whatever these places are called in your part of the world).
Recently a free pattern for a tank top using stretch fabric was brought to my attention and I thought, as the bare minimum of fabric in proportion to flesh and other clothing would be on show, this might actually work for the garish stuff.
Photo from Halfmoon Atelier
This is the Super Basic Tank Top pattern by Halfmoon Atelier which you can find here and, if you sign up for their newsletter, the pattern is free.
There are two methods on how to do an FBA (full bust adjustment) included in the instructions and I followed the easier method and graded between a size 6 at the bust and size 5 for the waist and hips. However, that made the armholes too big on me so I just used the size 5 for all measurements on the actual garment. Of course, being a pattern for knit fabrics, this could vary. The next time I make it, if the fabric is more or less stretchy than the one I used this time, I could need to go down or up a size. These are the little things that make life so exciting.
I love the back which is also scooped deeply but not deep enough to show your bra.
In fact, it’s difficult to tell which is front and which is back so I put a label in in case I get confused.
Scuba fabric is a little weird as it has a slightly spongy feel and it is definitely not a fabric to keep you cool in hot weather but, on the plus side, it doesn’t fray, it takes colours and prints beautifully, has a good amount of stretch and, I find at least, it’s easy to sew with.
So, out of the stash bin and onto my body.
Less is definitely more with this fabric so I think it works really well as a vest rather than, as originally envisioned, a tunic with 3/4 length sleeves.
This is the nearest I’m ever going to get to having a tattoo. My sister has a daisy chain tattooed round her ankle and said it was worse than childbirth which is my benchmark for pain and, if it had been me, I’d have stopped at just one daisy – although, funnily enough, I didn’t stop at just one child.
So, do you like the fabric a little better now?
I haven’t made an actual pledge or promise but I am really trying to use my current fabric stash for sewing projects before buying anything new. It’s not always going to be possible – I recently ‘had’ to buy some rigid denim for example – but I’m trying. I really do believe I have fabric supplies beyond life expectancy and that’s not a sensible place to be. I don’t want to posthumously entertain the executors of my will by listing the beneficiaries of various fat quarters, jelly rolls and assorted yardage but, on the other hand, I don’t want all the lovely fabrics I’ve collected to be cast, like pearls before swine, on the undeserving or, worse, the unappreciative. Does that make me a bad person?
Anyway, while I’m still breathing, I have made a start by using some fabric I bought either from a charity shop or from somebody’s general clear out – I don’t remember now – I’ve had it a while.
The pattern is a French one called Dorothie from a company called ‘Slow Sunday Paris’ . I was reading a post from a blogger I follow who, despite not speaking or reading any French, had a delve into what the French Indie pattern designers have to offer.
As I’ve lived in France for 14 years, I felt a bit ashamed because, apart from ‘Deer & Doe’ who offer their patterns in both French and English, I had never bothered to look at any others, although I have made the odd thing from French magazines. ‘Slow Sunday’ do now offer a few of their patterns in bilingual versions but this isn’t one of them (yet).
So, here is my ‘Dorothie’ in stash fabric which, coincidentally, happens to be in an ‘on trend’ colour.
I love those sleeves, they’re just that bit different – not too floofy but a nod to the current trend for a bit of a ruffle.
I also like the way the collar sits and the pleats beneath the front yoke are another nice detail.
The sleeves are set in with just a little floof and the back yoke also has a few pleats for interest. The slightly longer and curved back hem is just the right length – on me anyway – and I like the little slits at the sides too.
The buttons were also from my stash so, as you can tell, I’m feeling pretty happy….
……especially as those tiles have finally been grouted in . This bathroom project has, for various reasons, been a very long one and it’s not finished yet.
I really like this pattern and will be making another one in the fullness of time – from stash fabric of course.
If you like the pattern and don’t read French – never fear – what has been done by others was to buy the PDF version and cut and paste the instructions into Google Translate et voila!
On Tuesday morning, I just logged on quickly to check my emails and the news headlines while I had my breakfast.
Oh Look! Deer and Doe have a new dressmaking pattern out today. I like Deer and Doe.
Come on, you’ve got loads of patterns, you still haven’t done anything with, surely you don’t need any more.
Yes, but look, there’s an introductory offer of 20 % off and delivery is free. Plus, it’s a jumpsuit.
It’s a what?
You know, an all-in-one thingy – a boiler suit.
Get a grip woman, you haven’t worn one of those since the 80s.
Yes, but that was a bit utilitarian looking, sort of communist chic. This one looks all nice and drapey and it’s in jersey.
Yes, but where will you wear it?
Well, I don’t know but I bet Mlle Tialys the Elder would like this pattern too so she could share it which makes it good value. Then I could make the shorts version for Mlle Tialys the Younger to wear this Summer.
I thought you’d decided to make a blouse next.
Well, yes, but I’ve discovered I prefer making things that are a bit of a challenge these days and I’ve never made a jumpsuit before.
Perhaps there’s a reason for that,
But I’ve got the perfect jersey fabric in my stash and my overlocker is already threaded up with the right colour thread – it’s a sign.
That’s it, I’ve pressed the button, I’ve ordered it.
But how will you go for a wee?
Nooooooo! I remember now! Why didn’t you stop me?
This weekend I’m hoping to finish my jeans and I’m hoping even more that, this time, they’re going to fit me. Despite making a stupid error along the way – which involved cutting excess fabric off that wasn’t actually excess! – I think I might have cracked it.
Here are the pocket linings I chose for fun even though nobody (or very few) people will ever see them but me.
I’m doing the top stitching using Gutermann’s top stitching thread in a silvery grey colour to go with the floral pattern.
I’m using the 1950s electric SInger my friend gave me which used to belong to her mother because life is much easier if you have one machine threaded up with the top stitching thread and another with the thread you’re using for basting and seaming and even easier if you also have an overlocker/serger for seaming or finishing or both.
So you end up with a set up a bit like this.
Sorry about using Babe for a pincushion but it was that or the charity shop.
Anyway, Bekki over at Dartmoor Yarns had asked to see my vintage machine top stitching in action so there you go.
There’s even a back view.
The machine is struggling a bit with the lumps and bumps of the various thicknesses but I think it probably just needs a new needle which I will sort out before I tackle the stitching on the waistband and pockets.
As for ‘Blue Jean Baby’ – obviously I’m far too vintage for that to refer to me any more but as this post concerns both jeans and baby stuff and, as they are the first words of one of my favourite songs, it just sprang to mind for my blog post title. **
As you know, I’m not sending the Foxy Quilt I made for my niece’s June baby until I can make a label for it with date of birth, etc. so, in the interim, I had a rummage through my previous hand made efforts and made up a little parcel to start her off although, knowing her, she’s already got cupboards and wardrobes full of designer stuff. I am reliably informed however – well, as reliable as my sister gets – that her daughter (my niece) loves hand made items so she will be inundated with my doomed plans to possibly add baby stuff to my Etsy shop. Doomed because I am not dedicated enough to make the same thing twice so, even though I made some pretty baby dresses in Liberty tana lawn and Tilda fabric, I only ever made them in one size and, when asked by potential customers to make one up in a different size, I couldn’t
be bothered quite get up the enthusiasm.
They will be in a future parcel 🙄
So, this time round she’ll get this bunny basket …..
……. containing a little bonnet
and four little bandana baby bibs.
So, let’s hope my sister’s right.
Have you got a big project on this weekend? I hear the weather’s not going to be up to much either here or in the U.K. so it’s the perfect excuse to stay cocooned and get creative.
** Just in case it was worrying you , ‘Blue Jean Baby’ are the first words of ‘Tiny Dancer’ by Elton John. Now, if you cared at all, you don’t have to look it up.
Guess what I’m having another stab at.
If I can make a coat, I can blooming well make jeans to fit me.
I’m making them in the same size as before but, this time, there’s more stretch in the fabric so I should be able to bend my knees which I find comes in useful.
And I said I’d never make one. It’s lined and everything. I’m as chuffed as a chuffed thing can get. Can you tell?
It’s the Opium Coat from Deer and Doe and it’s a swing coat which is quite fun. There is a belted version but thick, coating fabric belted round the middle is a look that concerns me. I know it would appeal to some people but, not being 5’10” tall and straight up and down, I’m not one of them.
A special feature of this coat is the welt pockets, which Deer and Doe have called ‘origami’ pockets. (Other people may also call them this but, if so, I am unaware.
They were a little bit tricksy but, although the written pattern instructions are good, there is some excellent help available on Deer and Doe’s blog for these pockets, the collar and the lining, which I was very grateful for.
I think these unusual welts were worth the little bit of extra effort – more interesting than just the usual plain band.
My mannequin stands very still and is not plagued by dogs wanting a game of ball so here’s a photo of the back
I managed to get over my fear of linings or ‘fódraphobia’ as Kate pretended it was called.
On a real person – i.e. me – it has plenty of twirl potential.
Please forgive parasol action in the background. Mlle. T. the Younger was taking the photos and didn’t think to mention it.
If I look a bit smug – it’s because I am. Just a bit.
What will be next on my ‘never say never’ list? I do have to make another pair of jeans because, as you know, making them and actually getting into them are two separate things.
But, never fear, I will not let them beat me and let’s end on a high note as I head off into
a cordyline australis the sunset with my faithful companions.
Have you ever made a coat or thought about making one? How did it go for you?